Hurtigruten is an excellent way to explore the Norwegian coast. It runs along Norway’s western and northern coast between Bergen and Kirkenes. The classic voyage is 12 days which starts from Bergen and ends in Kirkines. Some people even opt for return journey to Bergen. However its also possible to break the journey in parts as they offer port to port itineraries too.
We had travelled from Bergen to Ålesund via overnight hurtigruten MS Finnmarken and then broke the journey to spend 2 nights in Ålesund. Thereafter we booked a 3 night cruise on the vessel MS Polarlys to Tromsø. Here is what our itinerary looked like:
Day 1: Ålesund – Molde. Kristiansund
Day 2: Trondheim
Day 3: Bodø – Lofoten islands( Stamsund – Svolvær )
Day 4: Harstad – Finnisnes – Tromsø
Here is a detailed trip port regarding the ports and the sightseeing options available.
Day 1: Board the ship at 12.00 and depart Ålesund at 15.00 for Molde. Arrive Molde at 18.00. Depart Molde at 18.30 and arrive Kristiansund at 22.00. Depart Kristiansund 23.00
We boarded the ship and checked in our cabins. The good part about the ship was they gave us the cabin right away so we could store our bags and move around the town until the ship left.
As we cruise we pass many such small islands.
As the day advances and sun starts leaving this part of the world we catch beautiful sunsets from the ships deck.
Day 2: Trondheim at 6.00. Depart Trondheim at 12.00 pm.
We arrive at Trondheim in the morning at 6.00 am. Trondheim is the third largest city in Norway and also boasts of a large student community. Once the hurtigruten ship docks you have a few hours to explore the city on your own or choose from one of the many shore excursions that they provide. We chose the northernmost tram ride tour.
A short bus ride took us to the tram stop in the city centre. From here, we got into a vintage carraige and passed through the beautiful streets of Trondheim. Gråkallbanen line has operated since 1924 on 8.8km narrow gauge tracks from the city centre to the suburbs of Trondheim.
You will enjoy a spectacular view of Trondheim in a carriage from the 1950s, before you arrive at lake Lian, the final destination of the tram line. The lake was however frozen as we visited in April.
From here we continue to Munkvoll where a bus takes you to the ski-jumping arena, Granåsen, built for the world championship in 1997.
After the tram ride we drove through the ccentre of Trondheim and stopped at the Nidaros Cathedral – Norway’s national shrine. It has a history of over 1000 years and is the pilgrimage goal of the north due to its position on the grave of Saint Olav.
After Nidaros cathedral we drove back to the ship.
Day 3: Arctic circle crossing !!!! Arrive Bodø at 12.30. Leave aorund 3.00 pm for Stamsund. Arrive Stamsund at 19.00. Transfer to a bus and move around the Lofoten islands. Board the ship from another port Svolvær and depart at 22.00.
This day started with arctic circle crossing at Vikingen.The exact location of the Arctic Circle varies each time you travel past it. Over the course of a full year, the virtual line shifts by almost 15 metres – while Vikingen and its Arctic Circle Monument remain firmly in place.
On the hurtigruten ship they celebrate crossing the line with rites such as whistle signals and symbolic on-deck baptisms. The ship crew makes the whole event very amusing. On day 2 during the dinner you have to write an approximate time the ship would cross the arctic circle and handover the form with your cabin number to the crew. Next morning when the ship crosses the arctic circle the person closest to the timing wins and gets a surprise. Well the surprise is the Captain of the ship puts ice cubes down your back and baptises you! Hoorah you have crossed the arctic circle. This was the first time that I didn’t want to win 😉
The imaginary line is marked with a small globe. Everyone had fun time with ice buckets.
Three souls cross an imaginary finishline and feel elation like never before. It amuses me that imaginary things can give me so much joy, even though this was my 2nd time. The 1st time I crossed Arctic circle line was at Santa Claus village in Finland. I guess I just love the idea of being so far away on the globe and yet connected with the rest of humanity!
The first stop on this day was Bodø. It is the capital of Nordland county and lies between the Arctic circle and Lofoten islands. We arrived Bodø but we had not taken any excursion so we just moved around the town and went back to the ship.
Fishes drying on one of the boats
We then left for Lofoten islands. Lofoten islands have marvellous nature. Our port of disembarkation was Stamsund on the Lofoten Islands. The charming fishing village is located on the south side of the island of Vestvågøy in the Lofoten archipelago, along the Vestfjord.
We chose highlights of Lofoten as our excursion. Its a perfect way to see the islands as the bus takes you across the islands and then you have to embark the ship from another port called Svolvaer which is in a different part of the island.
So here is what the excursion was like: We boarded the bus at Stamsund. Our first stop is a photo stop at Torvdalshalsen.
We then continue to Kabelvåg, the oldest fishing village in the Lofoten Islands. Lofoten has inspiring natural beauty. As we drive ahead we cross beautiful bridges and are greeted with some stunning scenery.
This stretch of road was my favorite. I dont think my camera captured what I actually saw. Just mesmerizing.
We visited the Lofoten Museum where you can learn about the history of the local fishermen. Here you experience an authentic 19th-century setting, with the former village owner`s residence, fishermen`s cabins, a general store and boathouses with traditional wooden boats.
The last stop is Vågan Church in Kabelvåg, also known as Lofoten Cathedral.
We continue further to Svolvaer which is our last stop on land before we board the ship again.
The picturesque harbour of Svolvær overlooking the Vestfjord as MS Polarlys moves away.
Once back on the ship we retired for the day. In the middle of the night we get an alarm that northern lights are visible and we all rush to deck in pajamas. Well the aurora wasn’t so strong but we got faint green lights in the sky.
Day 4: Arrive Harstad at 6.45. Depart at 7.45 for Finnsnes. Arrive Finnsnes at 11.00 and depart at 11.30 am. Arrive Tromsø at 14.15. Disembark.
This is the last day for us on the ship. I wake up at 6 and go for my usual morning walk on the deck and I am greeted to a snow covered deck. Wow!
Time for a freezing selfie !
The port of Harstad looked like a white town as MS Polarlys closes in. The ground was covered with fresh snow.
I got down to stroll on the fresh snow. There is a jet d’eau in about 5 minutes from the dock.
After Harstad the ship starts moving towards Finnsnes. We pass beautiful fjords and mountains. Once at the port we get down for a small stroll.
After Finnsess the ship starts moving further north passing beautiful scenery. As we keep moving north the brown mountains start turning white.
Music, a cup of green tea and blue sea…Hmmm
Finally we arrive at Tromsø. The white arctic cathedral with a backdrop of white mountain reminded me of a shot from the film Narnia.
The hurtigruten moves further north from here towards Kirkenes. However if you have time and budget constraints you can do this stretch of 3 days from the 12 day itinerary. According to me its nice to spend some time in the Arctic capital. We decided to spend 2 nights in Tromsø.You can read more on 2 days in Tromsø in my blog here.
Well one thing to be noted is that if you are a vegetarian and picky about food you might want to carry a lot of food with you as there were very few vegetarian options onboard. I have survived on potatoes and black pepper!
Nevertheless Happy hurtigruten to you 🙂
Wow !!!! I would definitely want to plan this after reading it !!! Thanks for the lovely write up !!
This definitely is a bucket list place and you have given it full justice with your beautiful description.