Christmas holidays were here again! We decided to call it quits in the big city and embark on a short 4-day trip. ‘Welcome 2017 in Rajasthan”
We chose Jodhpur for our ‘Bye Bye 2016’ trip. The main reason was to experience winter on a desert camp, dig on some spicy lip smacking Rajasthani food and explore the famous blue city of Jodhpur.
Since I had only 4 days I decided to stay 2 nights in Khimsar and 2 nights in Jodhpur.
Day 1:
We arrived Jodhpur and transferred to Khimsar. Its 2 hour away from Jodhpur. Our stay was booked at Welcome Khimsar fort and dunes.
Khimsar fort was built by Rao Karamsji, 8th son of Rao Jodha of Jodhpur. It is a now a hotel property converted by Welcome Group Hotels, just an hour’s drive from the main city of Jodhpur, in the town of Khimsar. A part of the property is converted into the hotel, while another part remains as the official residence of the current Kunwar and the royal family. The fort also showcases the royal family’s antique car collection. A must visit, if you’re an vintage car enthusiast. Or if you just want to see how the decades old Jaguar, Rolls Royce, Harley etc looked like.
Living in a fort is surely a good experience. The property is landscaped with beautiful garden and flora. It even has a small Shiva temple inside. The stroll in the courtyards and the broad fort walls would take you back to ancient times. Oh how I wished I were a Raja!
Well, atleast we were addressed as ‘Hukum’ by the hotel staff 😉
Afternoon was spent idling around in the room and in the evening we headed for the fort wall yet again for the sunset.
This time Atharva tried eating the Sun 😉
The hotel had lively folk performances in the evening. There were magicians and puppeteers also to entertain us. After the lively music and dance we headed for a magical candlelit dinner in the 15th century ruins. The hotel has a beautiful restaurant Fatehmahal. The restaurant is set in a section of fort and the ambience is sure to take you a few centuries back! I had the best haldi ki subji.
Day view of the restaurant in Fateh Mahal
Buffet set up in the ancient fort walls
The restaurant looked magical in the night with its candlelight setting.
Day 2:
Our day two started with a beautiful sunrise from the perimeter wall of the fort.
The welcome hotel has 2 properties, one which is the converted Khimsar fort and the other is a small man made desert camp – Khimsar dunes village. We had booked 1 night there too. So we checked out from the fort and shifted to the desert camp. The travel to camp was fantastic. We were taken in an open Jeep safari for about 15-20 min and and then transferred on a camel cart that takes you to your cottage. Yes you read it right!
A safari jeep took us to the boundary of dunes. This was our transit point where we changed our mode of transport – the Camel cart! I have to admit I was thrilled with the idea of transferring to our hut on the camel cart. The luggage was also loaded on the cart with us.
The setting of the camp was exclusive – a small pond with clusters of huts around it. They had one big hut which served as dining hall.
There have been 2 times when I have loved my check in process, Once in the Kicheche camp in Kenya ( Read more: Kicheche bush camp Kenya) and the other in Khimsar. The manmade dunes village is just fabulous with luxurious mud huts!
Watching sunrise and sunset from the top of the dunes was pure bliss! Not to mention the fun rolling times? Come on , when was last that you rolled in sand, or in a desert?
There is pretty much nothing to do here except relax. In the evening we climbed the dunes for high tea. The hotel staff arranged high tea on the rim of the dunes. So you could actually enjoy the sunset while sipping your favorite masala chai. People who couldnt climb from the steeper side by the resort took camel rides on the other side where the dunes are more gentle to climb.
There were many people who came from Jodhpur as well as the Khimsar fort hotel to watch the sunset over the dunes.
A typical night time would be something like this – Clear, unpolluted starry sky, a bonfire, local stories by the hotel staff, a midnight walk in the desert.
Day 3:
We woke up for our usual morning walk and waited for the beautiful Sunrise. Singularity ? When ? How? Why ?
This man on the dunes is on a quest to change the world! Well he did change mine;)
Much to my dismay we had come to an end of our stay and it was time to check out. We didn’t want to leave this place until a camel cart stopped right outside our cottage and the turbaned man in charge of the cart said “Hukum, your luggage?”
After about 2 hours we reached Jodhpur. Jodhpur is one of the few cities in India where the old city has maintained its charm. Jodhpur’s old town – the blue city – is now brimming with boutique haveli hotels, foreigners, and rooftop restaurants – all overlooking the imposing red sandstone Mehrangarh fort. The city looks lovely from the fort.
Narrow streets, smell of food in the air, incessant chaos of people and vehicles alike, and among them, the magnificence of the huge Mehrangarh fort.
We had booked a room in one of the old haveli in the narrow bylanes. The view from the roof top restaurant Dagley was fantastic – Mehrangarh fort towering over it.
We checked in and after a quick snack in Dagley set out for Jaswant Thada. Jaswant Thada is a cenotaph built by Maharaja Sardar Singh in memory of his father Maharaja Jaswant Singh.
There is a small pond near this monument. After spending some time near the pond we set back to the old lanes where our hotel was. We then explored the clock tower area and ambled in the small bylanes,hogging on all available local street food – Mishrilal mirchi bada and lassi topped the list. We also chanced upon a beautiful stepwell called Toorji ka Jhalra. There was a local band playing western music. I found it very amusing to listen to western songs sitting on the steps of that old well.
Day 4:
After a delicious breakfast on the rooftop Dagley restaurant of our hotel, we went for a ride in the rickshaw around the city. Every city is best explored in its local transport. After a wonderful ride in different parts of Jodhpur, we returned back to our old town street where we had lunch in a typical haveli restaurant – Jhankar chhoti haveli.
Post lunch we visited Mehrangarh fort. The fort structure looks quite daunting on a perpendicular cliff.
It was a delight to move around the massive courtyards learning about the history that it held.
After visiting Mehrangarh we walked towards Rao Jodha Desesrt rock park. This park is around 800m, 10-15 min leisurely walk from the fort. Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park lies at the foot of Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur city. The Park extends across 70 hectares – about 170 acres – of rocky land surrounding the fort. This park has two different trails for walking. A gentle trek that leads you to the opposite hill of the Mehrangarh fort which gives you stunning views and best photo spot. When we started the trail I had no idea of the views it would offer.
You should plan to spend at least 2 hours here just before sunset. The fort dazzled in the setting light of the sun. We just found our perfect viewing spot and squatted. As sense of astonishment and achievement swelled up standing there amazed at how they build such a colossal structure in those times!
You will get those picture perfect postcard moments to click some beautiful memories. Rao Jodha park was our highlight in Jodhpur. Finally after some blissful time and another stunning sunset we started walking back to the entry gate.
The last dinner of Jodhpur was in Ravla restaurant. There are many restaurants in old town of Jodhpur which are converted terraces of the old houses and hence no elevators! So you have to climb 2/3 floors on those big stairs before and after food. But trust me the food and views are totally worth it! Special mention – Ker Sangri, Rabori, Haldi ki subji, Gatta ka shaak.
I loved Jodhpur for its old town appeal and delicious food.